Wednesday, February 22, 2017

Joshua Tree and Angeles National Forest January 2017

When we arrived in LA the weather was beautiful.  Our first day at Joshua Tree was 70 degrees and sunny - precisely the weather I like to climb in.  JTree was interesting.  It's called a national forest, but the only "trees" are cacti and little bushes.  There are hundreds of clusters of mountains, and they looked built to me.  Like a toddler had pieced them together, instead of forming naturally.
 Echo Rock, and one of the few trees in the forest.
 A completed climb at Indian Cove.
 Prepping to climb at Indian Cove.
 The view from the top of Indian Cove.
 Another view.
 Hiking around looking for climbing and stopping for lunch.
The last climb - I wish I remembered what it's called, but it's very recognizable from the ground because of the "cave" I'm standing in.  I started leading it but was unable to reach the next clip from where I'm pictured, so Sean finished it and I topped it.


The next few days were too cold for me to climb in Joshua Tree, so we headed back towards LA.  We stopped at quite a few wineries on our way, including Galleano, Miramonte, Falkner, and Rosenthal.

Our last climbing was in Angeles National Forest.  A drive up a windy mountain, then a short hike to the crag.  There were at least four pitches on the climb we did, but I got too cold after two. 

The view from the hiking path.  We climbed the far left side of what's pictured.  A nice slab climb probably no harder than 5.9.

I learned to play poker while we were camping, and I learned that I need to go farther south in the winter.  A fun trip overall; I'd love to go back when it's warmer.

Monday, January 30, 2017

Mokuleia December 2016

Since the most celebrating I do for any holiday* is have an extra cocktail, Sean and I camped on Christmas Eve so Cj and her family could do the traditional Christmas thing without us.  They dropped us off on Farrington Highway between the beach and Mokuleia Trail.  We hung out on the beach for a bit, but it was cold for me even just to lay out, and we wanted to make it to the crag before it got dark.  It's a 45 minute hike up to the crag - I'd say a fairly difficult hike, but I did it in flip flops while drinking so I can't complain too much.  Very much uphill though.

In a clear spot near the beginning of the hike.

We made it up shortly before dark and looked around to find someplace to camp.  We passed locals heading out on our way up who said most people camp on the beach, but I wanted to see the climbing and I didn't want to hike up the mountain twice.

Looking back down at the beach.
Our camping place, Christmas morning.

It was interesting; there are loads of nooks and crannies at the base of the entire wall, and there were quite a few sets of climbing gear left in them.  Nice to be able to have your gear waiting instead of having to hike it up every time, and trust that it won't be stolen.  The brown box behind where we camped was a shelving unit of sorts - I have no idea how it got up there - but inside were sunglasses, another set of gear, and some odds and ends.

We were the only ones up there for the night - and no wonder, because it got very cold and windy - but we were able to start climbing before anyone else arrived the next morning.  I looked up and down the wall, said "This looks good," and started climbing.

I was struggling, but nearly halfway up when some locals arrived and told us I was between Copper Dragon and Double Dragon - 5.11d and 5.12a, respectively.  "No one really climbs those."  Since I rarely climb anything over 5.10, and generally don't lead anything above 5.9, I'm surprised I made it as far as I did.  But I came down from my last clip and let Sean finish and clean it. It took a while, and he had to continue zigzagging between the two, but he did make it to the top on lead with no falls.
 Sean on another climb.

 And another.
The beach from the top of my last climb.

An interesting thing about the climbs at Mokuleia was that there were cords through the bolts, so you could tie your own rope, pull it through and have a top rope without anyone having to lead it.  
After we hiked back down and played on the beach for a while, we hitchhiked with a nice older man drinking beer over to the bus stop, and bussed back to Cj's house.  Happy holiday!

*Except Halloween.  I'm very serious about that holiday.

Waimea Beach December 2016

My best friend Cj has lived in Hawaii for a couple years (her husband is in the Army) and I jumped at the opportunity to visit her during the holidays.  There was lots of hanging out and playing games, but one day the five of us went to check out Waimea Beach.  Sean and I found some bouldering immediately, and while I rarely boulder - it's so scary to me - these were nice, and had a variety of grades to try.  You could top out and easily hike down around the back to return to the beach.  Or fall back into the sand.




 I should have taken pictures of the whole boulder - next time.  There were several routes that I was comfortable climbing, (meaning very easy, because I hate falling without a rope) as well as more difficult ones that Sean and some other guys were having trouble with.  Some routes had bolts on top if one wanted to set up a top rope, but the total height was under 25'.

As part of Waimea Park, there's a hike paved walk to Waimea Falls.  It's really gorgeous there, even in winter, and ends at the falls, which guests are allowed to swim in if they're insane comfortable with freezing water.  I touched my feet in briefly and took photos.
The rock surrounding the falls looks climbable, but alas, I don't want to climb anything badly enough to swim through ice water to do it.  Park employees were all over and I'm not certain whether climbing is even allowed.

Standing on a bridge, 15 minute walk before the falls.
At the safe (dry) edge of the falls.

Monday, January 16, 2017

Red River Gorge November 2016

This sounded like a great idea:  Six of us share a cabin and go climbing in KY over Thanksgiving weekend.  It's a 6 hour drive from Atlanta, so worth it for the long weekend.  Normal climbers love this.  The place was packed, and there was actually some trouble booking a cabin because of it.

Not my style.  In November, Kentucky is COLD.  Average probably 50 degrees while we were there. No amount of warm clothing can save my bare hands from ice rock.  Tight climbing shoes means my feet were cold too.  I knew I was a giant wuss when it came to cold weather - I grew up in Michigan and moved south and more south until Atlanta, where it still gets too cold for me.

This was our last day, we stopped at Miguel's Pizza on the way out.  It's a big stop for climbers, but I honestly wasn't crazy impressed with the food.
 Hiking to our first climb on the WARMEST day we were there.
 Steve belaying Sean, and Kyle is to the left.
 A view from the top.
 Another view from a different top.  I was so cold I only climbed a handful of times all weekend.
 A warm(ish) day climb.
 Sean wanted to climb this on our way out.  It's rather overhung, so I didn't do it, but we later realized it was multi-pitch sport, so we missed out on it.
 I'll try in the summer.
Last view.

There are a lot of climbs in a small area, and I'm interested in going back when the weather is more agreeable.

New Hampshire October 2016

Sean and I went to Conway, NH for his friends' anniversary party.  While we were there, we couldn't help but check out the local climbing.  Cathedral Ledge is the mountain face, visible from town and easy to get to.  We parked on the side of the road, then it was a 10 minute hike to the crag.  Lacking any guidebooks, I perused the rock, found bolts, and said, "I'll climb this."  So we set it up.  It was mostly slab, and here was my first fall while lead climbing.  I was nearly to the second bolt when I slipped and rolled halfway past the first bolt.  Finding no major injuries, I headed back up.  Once I made it to the anchors, I saw that the bolts continued.  We had never done multi-pitch, but I didn't want to stop, so I persuaded Sean to come up to continue it.  Three pitches total and we were both at the top.
There are no multi-pitch sport routes listed on Mountain Project, so if it's named I don't know it.  I would estimate it to be a 5.9, with some easier and harder spots.

But there we are at the top, figuring out how to get down, and we could no longer see our friends at the bottom.  Local climbers gave us some tips at the first bolt as we were leaving.


We stayed in Conway for nearly a week, so here we are at the party cabin.

And watching the sunset over the lake behind the cabin.

Stone Mountain September 2016

I've heard if you're sneaky, you can climb at Stone Mountain, but technically it's not legal.  J had a field trip there, so Sean and I hiked to the top since it's something GA residents are supposed to know about.


J got tired halfway through and waited in the shade for us to finish.  It's about a 45 minute hike, fairly easy, but no actual climbing.  The paths are obvious so there's no danger of losing your way.  A nice area, but not spectacular enough to pay the entry fee again.

Sand Rock September 2016

Another time at Sand Rock - it's a favorite for a lot of people I climb with.  Lindsey is leading, Ian and Sean are bouldering.  My daughter J is top roping in the last pic.  If Lindsey had taken the photos, she would have noted what climbs each was, but I took them all and have no idea.






This was the first time my daughter came camping with us.

Currahee Mountain July 2016

Another trip to Currahee now that we knew how to get to the climbs.  We made this a day trip with a small group; camping is legal at Currahee, but there aren't really any sites designed for it.




Now that I'm blogging, I'm keeping better track of what exactly I'm climbing, but for now, I just have pictures.  I remember it being very slabby, which I like, and sadly we did not visit the winery again.

Allenbrook July 2016

Allenbrook is a nice little hike to some overhanging climbs next to a river.  Top roping is standard, as you can hike up to set up anchors and there are no bolts in the rocks.  It's a short drive from Atlanta, so we just had a day trip.
                                   Here I'm standing under the overhanging rock for the shot.

                                                                    And back a bit.
Both pictures are of Sean on what I believe is Rumors Roof, a 5.10b.  Sean, Chris, and Kris made it up, but I got halfway and swung out toward the river.  I'm a measly 5'6", so when guys over 6' tell me there's something to grab "just up to your right," they're lying without knowing it.
It was on this trip my puppy learned to play in the water, thanks to the dogs of some nearby campers.

Sand Rock July 2016

My second time at Sand Rock (not pictured) I top-roped a really awesome climb in the Whipping Post area called Nothingness (variation).  This time when I went back I was determined to lead it.



Pictures courtesy of Lindsey.
Nothingness is a 5.9*, and it took me at least 40 minutes.  I had to rest about a dozen times, and Sean was so patient belaying while I refused to give up.  I was thrilled when I finally made it.  I had only been climbing 3 months or so, and 5.9 was my hardest lead.


*Nothingness is a 5.12 if you don't stem.